Average Size: 2" to 3.5"

Lifespan: 2-7 years

Hygiene and Health: During the day, the cage should stay between 72°F (22°C) and 80°F (26.5°C). At night the temperature in the cage can drop to 65°F (18°C) without harm. Green tree frogs are tolerant of occasional days outside of this temperature range. The cage can be heated with a low wattage incandescent light bulb during cool months of the year if needed.

The humidity level in the cage can vary. It should be 30% to 50%, but during breeding season you can boost it to 60% to 80%. Consider misting the cage with water several times a week to bring about temporary increases in humidity. If the ambient humidity level in your house is very low during certain times of the year, you can restrict ventilation on the cage and mist more often.

Provide a shallow water dish with clean water in it. This will need to be changed every day or when it appears dirty. Treat tap water with tap water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals or use bottled spring water.

Behavior: Frogs can be alone, in pairs, or in colonies depending on the size of the cage. They are known to be more active during the night, and do a lot of hunting and climbing about. They are known for their absolutely beautiful coloring and are known to change color to blend in their environment. they do communicate with each other vocally.

Diet: Green tree frogs accept a variety of feeders, including live crickets, wax worms, mealworms, small silkworms, red worms, moths, and flies. The size of the food item being fed should be about the length of the width of the frog's head, although many green tree frogs are capable of taking larger prey. The majority of their diet should consist of crickets, with other food items being substituted for them every few feedings. Feed adult frogs two to six feeders every other or every two days depending on the size of the frog and food being offered. Juvenile frogs should be fed daily. High quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements should be dusted onto their food every two to four feedings for adults, and more often for juveniles.

Habitat: The type of cage you'll need is a vivarium. The vivarium also must be screen covered at the top to avoid those sneeky frogs to get out of the their enclosure. A substrate that is easy to clean, holds moisture, and can not be swallowed, or is safe if swallowed, should be provided. A safe soil, such as coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, etc.) works well. Other substrates that can be used include moist paper towels, foam rubber, or large river rocks. Do not use reptile carpeting because the rough surface can irritate tree frogs, and avoid gravel, sand or small pieces of bark because they can be dangerous if swallowed. In addition to the substrate, perches and hide spots should be provided. Driftwood, cork bark tubes, bamboo poles, or even PVC pipe segments can be positioned at different angles in the cage to form perches. Fake or live plants provide cover, working particularly well when draped over the aforementioned perches.

You'll need a low wattage heat bulb, a low UV florescent, a water dish, feeding dish, hiding spots for frogs, and fake/real plants.

Taming, Training and Handling: These frogs should not be handled as they often die from high stress.

Loner or Groupies: The rule is 1 frog per 7 gallons of tank. They may fight if you do not obey this rule.

Recommended Supplies: